Replace a front door — step by step
A new front door lifts the whole house's face — and seals against cold and noise.
This is a complete guide to replace a front door yourself — step by step, with a material list, tools, a timeline and what it costs. It's written for anyone building at home without professional experience: count on 5–8 hours and a material cost of around 8,000–25,000 kr.
Showing method: Standard wood front door
The price is an estimate based on typical material prices and can vary depending on size, material choice, location and store.
Which method suits you best?
Best for: A typical house replacement where design matters more than maximum security.
Please note: Material quantities, prices and building methods are guidelines. Always check current prices, local regulations and product instructions before starting a project.
How a front door comes together
The front door is the first thing people see of your home — and the first thing that leaks heat if it's old. Replacing it is one of the few projects that raises the home's value, cuts the energy bill and gives you a daily boost of pride. We'll cover doing the swap yourself in a day, with a result that's both tight and good-looking.
Materials for a front door — full list
Check items off while you shop — the list stays with you on the page.
Replace a front door step by step
- 01
Measure the old frame from outside
Measure the frame's OUTER dimensions in width and height at a minimum of three points. The new door package should be 20–30 mm smaller than the wall opening to leave room for insulation and adjustment. Standard sizes 9×21 (90×210 cm outer frame) or 10×21 are most common.
Tip: Also measure the diagonals — if they differ by more than 10 mm the opening is out of square and will need extra wedging. - 02
Prepare and protect
Cover the floor indoors with plastic sheeting and shield thresholds and furniture. Choose a dry, windless day. Expect the hole to be open for 2–3 hours — keep plywood on hand in case the weather turns.
- 03
Remove the interior architrave and lock
Remove the interior architrave with a filling knife and pry it off carefully. Unscrew the cylinder and any letterbox that comes with the door. Loosen the threshold if it's fitted separately.
- 04
Lift out the old door
Unscrew the frame screws (found behind plastic plugs in the sides of the frame). Cut through the exterior sealant. Lift out the whole door package (leaf + frame) — a front door often weighs 60–80 kg, so two people are needed.
Tip: Take the leaf off its hinges BEFORE lifting out the frame — it halves the weight and the risk. - 05
Clear and inspect the opening
Remove all old insulation, sealant residue and any rotten sill timber under the threshold. If the sill is soft or discoloured, repair it now — it's your only chance. Brush it clean and check that the foundation/threshold is sound.
- 06
Set the new door plumb and level
Lift the frame into place and secure it with timber wedges (at least 4 per side + 2 at the top). Check plumb on both sides, level on the threshold and the diagonal measurements. Hang the leaf and test opening/closing — it should move freely without rubbing and stay put when left half-open.
Tip: A door that drifts to one position when you let go isn't plumb. Adjust until it stays wherever you leave it. - 07
Screw, insulate and foam
Drill and drive frame screws through the sides of the frame (4–5 per side). Pack insulation strip into the whole gap — firm but not compressed. Finish with a thin layer of low-expansion foam sealant for airtightness. Trim off the excess once it's cured.
- 08
Seal outside + fit the threshold flashing
Place backer rod in the exterior gap, fill with outdoor sealant and smooth it flat. Screw on the threshold flashing sloping outward so rainwater is always led away from the house.
- 09
Fit architrave, lock and handle
Cut architrave with a 45° mitre and nail it in place indoors. Fit the lock, cylinder, handle and any letterbox according to the door manufacturer's instructions. Adjust the hinges if the door rubs — all new doors need a little adjustment after a few days.
Help specific to replace a front door
How the time breaks down
Allow 5–8 hours of effective work over a full day. Most of the time goes on measuring, adjusting and getting everything plumb and level.
- Pre-measuring + ordering the new door1 hour + 3–8 weeks lead time
- Protecting, removing architrave & lock45 min
- Lifting out the old door45–60 min (two people)
- Clearing the opening, any sill repair30–90 min
- Setting the new door plumb and level1.5–2 hours
- Screwing, insulating, foaming45–60 min + curing time
- Threshold flashing + exterior sealant45 min
- Architrave, lock, handle, adjustment1–1.5 hours
How to save time
- Ask a capable friend to help — a 70 kg front door isn't a one-person job.
- Bring the door home at least a week in advance and let it sit indoors — it will settle to room temperature and won't move after fitting.
- Hire a trestle or stand for the door during the work — you'll avoid straining your back lifting it repeatedly.
Questions and answers about replace a front door
How do you replace a front door?
The front door is the first thing people see of your home — and the first thing that leaks heat if it's old. Replacing it is one of the few projects that raises the home's value, cuts the energy bill and gives you a daily boost of pride. We'll cover doing the swap yourself in a day, with a result that's both tight and good-looking. The guide breaks the work into 9 steps — you start with measure the old frame from outside, prepare and protect and remove the interior architrave and lock and work your way forward at your own pace.
How much does it cost to replace a front door?
Material cost is typically 8,000–25,000 kr. Total cost 8,000–25,000 kr depending on door type. Security and design doors cost significantly more than standard models. The biggest items are standard timber front door (9×21 or 10×21) 6,500–14,000 kr, class 3 security door 12,000–22,000 kr and frame screws (8–10 pcs) 100–200 kr. The price varies with size, material choice, location and store.
What materials do you need for a front door?
You'll need things like complete front door (frame + leaf), frame screws 7 × 100/120 mm, low-expansion foam sealant, insulation strip (mineral wool or hemp) and outdoor sealant — the full material list with quantities is in the guide and can be checked off while you shop. Tools you'll need at home: crowbar/wrecking bar, power drill, spirit level (long) and tape measure & pencil.
How long does it take and how hard is it?
Count on 5–8 hours for a front door. Allow 5–8 hours of effective work over a full day. Most of the time goes on measuring, adjusting and getting everything plumb and level. The difficulty level is challenging, so you can manage it without professional experience if you follow the steps in order.
Which method should I choose for a front door?
There are 3 common ways to build it: standard wood front door, class 2 or 3 security door and glazed door / double door. Choose a method at the top of the page — the guide, material list and cost then adapt to that solution.
What's the most common mistake?
The mistakes we see most often: not checking plumb on both sides of the frame — the door then drifts to one side on its own, using ordinary foam sealant — it pushes the frame out of plumb and the door won't close and forgetting to slope the threshold flashing outward — rainwater is led into the house and the threshold rots within a few years. Read through the whole guide once before you start — that way you'll avoid most of them.
And that's it, done.
Take a step back, pour a cup of coffee and enjoy. You built it yourself.
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